Saturday, July 16, 2011

Large Font

The next few posts are for my Mass. Ag. in the Classroom workshop.  In order for them to show up in a readable size on our TV screen, I need to use the largest font available.  Just in case you were wondering...

Feed

This is a general guide. The time frames may vary depending on which brand you use. Each manufacturer provides a guide on their packaging.  To see common brands, click the highlighted stages and you will be brought to different poultry feed websites for more information.

Chicks (0-6 weeks): Chicks have different nutritional needs than full grown chickens. Look for starter crumbles or starter mash. Medicated or unmedicated depends on you. Some people feel the medication rations give them peace of mind while others don’t want anything “unnatural”. If you are going to brood chicks in warm, humid weather, have a large number all at once, or won’t be on top of sanitation, you may want to consider medicated starter. Pathogens like coccidia love warm, humid weather, so if you raise chicks in late winter or early spring, you shouldn’t have to worry as much. Keep litter dry and waterers and feeders clean. Whenever you start introducing your chicks to anything other than feed (grass, vegetable scraps, etc.) you are going to need to provide them with grit. The grit acts like teeth in the chickens’ crops (regular rations do not require grit, they will break down on their own). Offer grit in a separate feeder so chickens can decide when they need it.

Chicks - Adolescents (6 to about 20 weeks): You may find a starter/grower ration which will allow you to skip this step. Any time you are switching feed, do so gradually! Gradually add grower rations until you are completely switched over (takes about a week or two). This feed will be fed until the birds are about 20 weeks old or until they first start laying (which ever comes first).

Layers: At 20 weeks or at first egg, you are going to switch from the grower feed to a layer feed (if you have males they will eat this as well). Again, make this a gradual change. You will also want to offer your chickens calcium at this time. Calcium needs change depending on age, diet, and health. Having a separate feeder allows the chickens to add more calcium to their diet when they need it.

Molting:  Chickens generally start to molt in the fall when daylight has started decreasing (to less than 12 hours per day). Pullets will usually not molt their first fall, so this will not apply to them. The chickens will start to shed their feathers and new feathers will grow in. A lot of energy will be put into growing new feathers, so egg production will usually drop. You can help your chickens by providing them with more protein (feathers are made up mostly of protein). Some people give a handful of cat food a few times a week or you can change to a higher protein diet like Purina’s Flock Raiser (has 20% protein instead of the usual 16% in most layer rations).

Vitamins and Electrolytes:  This is sold in powder form at feed stores. Generally the powder is added to food or water. Many hatcheries suggest using a vitamin pack to help get your chicks off to a strong start. You may also give your flock vitamins during times of stress or illness.

Scratch: This is like chicken candy. Since chickens tend to love scratch, it can be used to help train your chickens. Keep in mind that scratch is made up of a lot of corn (which will add fat onto birds) and too much scratch reduces their protein intake. This may be desirable for broilers (adding a nice layer of fat to keep the meat juicy when cooked) or roosters (who don’t need as much protein as hens); however, not so desirable for laying hens (often causing a reduction in egg production)- READ: fat, lazy hens!
In winter when energy needs go up (so extra calories are good), scratch is valuable in helping keep your birds warm. In summer, the extra calories are not needed, so reduce scratch or feed oats instead.

Why Keep Chickens?



1) Most people eat some type of chicken product (eggs and/or meat). Keeping your own chickens allows you to control the quality of those products. You know what your chickens eat, how they are treated, and whether they have access to the outdoors. You can be sure you are providing yourself, family, and friends with a superior product.

2) Chickens can make great pets. They take less time than most other common household pets (i.e. dogs and cats). Many chickens have been known to follow their owners around, want to sit his or her lap for petting, and are trainable (find a motivator). Plus, with so many varieties, they are pretty to watch in your yard.

3) Reduce your garbage with chickens!  Your flock will enjoy many kitchen scraps and garden scraps.  Instead of throwing a half-eaten dinner away, give it to the chickens along with the carrot peels, pepper seeds, and tomato tops from dinner prep.  Sure, many of these things could be composted, but chickens will also enjoy spoiled milk, yogurt, cheese and yes meat (I avoid chicken, but they will eat it)- all things you would not want to compost!  Also, when I garden, I would not compost weeds like purslane.  Instead, I throw it to the chickens who devour the omega-3 rich weed in seconds.  Good for them and good for me!


4) Chickens are adaptable. Contrary to popular belief, you don’t need a lot of land to have chickens. Chickens can be kept not only on farms, but in yards, and even on rooftops in large urban areas. They can do well with other animals (some animals, like dogs, may need some training first).

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Chickens Now Allowed in Westfield (With Permit)

According to the Westfield News, residents in Westfield, MA can now keep chickens provided they acquire a special permit through the Planning Board.  Residents with at least 3/4 of an acre will be allowed to keep up to 6 hens and those with less will be allowed only 3 (no roosters).  The permit process will include a hearing where abutters will be allowed to voice any concerns.  The process also requires a coop design with at least 3 square feet per bird and a pen with at least 10 square feet per bird.  There also has to be a plan for how to deal with odor and insects.  The birds need to be kept 50 feet from property lines.

This is funny- obviously these people don't own chickens and don't know anyone who does (at least responsibly).  First of all, I do not get to have a say about my neighbors' annoying dogs who are left outside to constantly bark (which is more annoying than any noise a hen or rooster would make).  So, it is funny that neighbors should be able to weigh in on whether someone should have a few hens.  On top of that, no one is going to walk their chickens to go to the bathroom in a neighbor's yard (yet another plus).  Second, the coop plans are silly.  If someone had a compact, mobile design (as is popular/trendy), it would not fit the city's requirements.  This is a shame because it would be healthier for the chickens and the yard they are kept in (provided they are actually moved on a daily basis).  Moving allows the chickens to have fresh grass and keeps them from developing a dusty, dirt-packed yard.  They would provide a natural fertilizer (hopefully cutting down on the chemicals people put on their grass which then washes into our water supply); not to mention, this would keep the insects and odor problem under control because there would be no build up of manure in one concentrated spot (thereby making it a non-issue).  The requirements follow old-school farming practices which are not in the best interest of the animals or people.

These people need to learn more about how to keep chickens successfully in your backyard before they pass such backward rules!  This poor design sets up would-be chicken owners to fail or work way harder than they need to.   Perhaps this is a step in the right direction, but certainly not a win for the city of Westfield.